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New Mexico: An Explorer's GuideNew Mexico: An Explorer’s Guide
By Sharon Niederman
The Countryman Press
384 pages, paperback, $19.95

This New Mexico edition of the Explorer’s Guide series hits the Land of Enchantment’s highpoints as well as a few back-road favorites. In addition to listing such guidebook standards as outdoor activities, lodgings, and festivals, this one includes categories for quiet delights, such as farmers markets and wineries. Handy icons point out family-friendly activities and lodgings that accept pets. Niederman excels at finding quirky lodgings and shopping destinations, but, unlike other guides, hers doesn’t suggest itineraries; it’s probably best used while exploring a predetermined destination than while wandering about. Niederman is the author of The Santa Fe & Taos Book: Great Destinations, the novel Return to Abó, and numerous articles and publications about the history, cuisine, music, architecture, and culture of New Mexico. She splits her time between Albuquerque and Ratón.

Today’s travels took us to Pueblo, Colorado, home of Damon Runyon, who inspired the “Guys and Dolls” lyrics (“the oldest established permanent floating crapgame in New York”). More to our POV is the saying that this old Colorado Fuel & Iron steelmill town, Pueblo identifies its natives as those who “have a potica bread in one hand and a tamale in the other.” That is, the place is ethnically Slavic, Italian, and Mexican. We concentrated on the latter two. While the doggies were being groomed we enjoyed the lunch special at Patti’s, spaghetti and meatballs. We were served pie plates of rich, savory sauce over perfectly-cooked pasta, one giant meatball per customer, fresh iceberg salad with blue cheese crumbles and house Italian dressing, fresh delicious bread and good coffee — for $4.50 each! How satisfying. Patti’s has been in business since 1936, and as my husband says, “If a place has been open more than fifty years, they must be doing something right.” Following our round of “big city” errands – the camera store, supermarket, office supply store– we were ready to dine again. We had an early supper at El Nopal, another long-running Pueblo family restaurant, circa 1957. Being from New Mexico, we are picky about our Mexican food. We split the No. 1 El Nopal Special, a combination of beef enchilada, guacamole, chile relleno, chicken taco, beans and rice. El Nopal had me from chips and salsa. Go there! The Denver Broncos do, when they are in town. We have always made food pilgrimages to Pueblo, but just now are the gates opening. We came here on a quest for potica bread, the rich cream-and-nut- filled loaf served at holidays, and we found the treat at Gagliano’s, an authentic down to the imported salamis and olives and pastas and Parmesan and narrow aisles Italian deli, in business since 1923. We bought appetizers for the dinner party we are giving Sunday night, and some really good olive oil. We drove home happy, watching the clouds build up, and we arrived just before the snow started falling.

Fortunate were we to drop in on the big doings in Taos last weekend. The grand reopening of the sleekly LA-style renovated Taos Community Auditorium, the intriguing new Larry Bell exhibition, and the free flow of tasty snacks to rival those served at your cousin Lenny’s bar mitzvah were all quite, quite fine, but best of all was the people- watching. Either you were an artist or you were dressed like one. Hand-woven scarves, hand-painted silks, cowboy boots, and clever hats made this a fashion show distinctly Taosian. It must be the air, or the grace of the mountain, but when folks deck out here, the style is part-gypsy, part-earth mother, part-heiress and so decadently casual that the final outfit is designed to look like it was just grabbed off the closet floor. It is the best! My friend, Lynn Hamrick, attired in a butter-soft black leather coat and calf-high black boots, looked every inch the LA filmmaker she is. I had the fortune to run into old pal Danielle Freeman, and when I added it up, realized I’d known her since she’d initiated me into my first Lama sweatlodge in 1984! Didn’t stay for the Robert Mirabal concert and local dance performances, as I had a date with my hubby at Graham’s Grille, a favorite of ours. I dearly love hanging out in Taos.
Will have to return to view the exhibit – couldn’t get much of a look due to the throngs of those who are finally emerging from their retreat into wintry stillness into spring.

Samantha Comes Home

Yesterday morning, I received a call from Jen at ESRA – English Springer Rescue America- Today we drove to Alamosa, Colorado to meet up with Samantha, a sweetie of a three year-old black and white English springer spaniel girl at the shelter there. She is quite the girlie-girl, friendly and loving with light brown eyes. She and Buckley got along pretty well, and we loaded her into the car and brought her home. She will be quite dainty when she sheds a few pounds, but she has had no exercise in her former home. Right now, she is snoring gently at my feet as I write. This little girl is already starting to mend the hole in my heart that broke when we lost Trooper in December. She is the perfect birthday present – from Chuck – and a sweet spring baby.

We took a Sunday drive out US 64/87 this morning, looking for some prairie dog hills to forage for dandlions. My husband remembers foraging out there, about four miles east of town, with his dad, who also found wild mushrooms on Johnson Mesa. We loaded up our equipment, two brown bags and two ten-inch knives, and we drove out, then into the open gateway to ask permission. The gentleman said he no longer owned the land, that it was now the property of Cowboys for Christ, but he didn’t see any harm in us removing a few dandelions. He invited us to take out a prairie dog or two while we were at it. All the while, we were reconstructing my husband’s mother’s recipe for the hot bacon dressing she served over the roots. Dandelions are a great spring tonic, and the greens and roots were savored by Native Americans. We couldn’t, however, find any sign of dandelions, so we continued on our way east. We were probably too early, so will try again in a few days. We visited Christina and Tim at their house after first sharing a “Big Boy” breakfast at Sierra Grande Cafe and admiring Dino Cornay’s pencil drawings, then went over to Gallery C in Des Moines. We picked up our order of Fair Trade fresh-roasted in Marfa, Texas coffee (bless you, Christina) and saw all that was new at the gallery. We drove back through Folsom, where we explored the Folsom Cemetery on this windy March day. Buried there is George McJunkin, the African-American cowboy who discovered the Folsom points, now in the Denver Museum of Natural History, that indicated early man inhabited this land more than 10,000 years ago. We enjoyed the view of Sierra Grande, the largest single mountain around the base in the US and Mount Capulin from the dusty, weedy cemetery scattered with faded plastic flowers and stones too weather-worn to read. I imagined the many stories buried in this humble patch of earth.

Come on in! L’il Sharon’s Country Cafe is open and the coffee is hot. So is the music! We’ll raid the vinyl vault to bring you the very best vintage country, roots, and Americana music this Saturday, and every Saturday, 2-4 pm, on KRTN-FM, 93.9 FM, Enchanted Air. This Saturday George Jones sings the greatest country tune ever recorded, while Gram Parsons, the original country-rocker, delivers a “Live from the Avalon Ballroom, 1969″ performance of some George Jones standards. Gram called George “The King of Broken Hearts.” Kitty Wells will take the mic, as will Faron Young, Buck Owens, Roy Acuff, Lester Flatt and Earl Scruggs, Porter Waggoner, Mother Maybelle Carter and so
many other Grand Ole
Opry greats. Don’t miss it! Sorry – not streaming yet. But you can pick up the show as you drive I-25 between Raton and Las Vegas. Please email your requests to: sherites@swcp.com.

We’re so excited! On my birthday, March 3, we passed the home visit from English Springer Spaniel Rescue. Buckley, our giant rambunctious Airedale puppy, was a perfect gentleman to Emma, the visiting Spaniel girl. We await word as to when we can meet up with a new spaniel sister for Buckley. He, of course, will come with us to Denver to greet her!

Wildlife

Abundant wildlife roam throughout northeastern New Mexico.

Abundant wildlife roam throughout northeastern New Mexico.